The smallest big mountains in the world
The High Tatras stretch barely 26 kilometres from end to end, yet they deliver everything you expect from serious mountains: jagged granite peaks, glacial lakes, waterfalls and legendary high-altitude huts. The roof of Slovakia and of the entire Carpathian range is Gerlachovský štít at 2,655 metres – though you may only climb it with a certified mountain guide. The whole range is protected by TANAP, the Tatra National Park, founded back in 1949 and the oldest national park in Slovakia.
The magic of the Tatras lies in the mix of wilderness and comfort. In the morning you ride an electric railway through spruce forest, at noon you eat cabbage soup in a hut at two thousand metres, and in the evening you sip coffee in Starý Smokovec. Few places in Europe make high mountains this accessible.
Lomnický štít: a cable car to 2,634 metres
The second-highest Tatra peak is also the only one you can reach by cable car. From Tatranská Lomnica you first ascend to Skalnaté pleso, then a small suspended cabin takes you straight to the summit of Lomnický štít (2,634 m). At the top you will find an observatory, a tiny café and a view you will not forget – on a clear day you can see deep into Poland and across to the Low Tatras ridge.
A practical tip: cabin capacity is limited and timed tickets sell out days in advance in high season, so book online. A return ticket from Tatranská Lomnica costs roughly 45 to 55 EUR and you get about 50 minutes at the summit – just enough for a coffee with the best view in Central Europe.
Štrbské Pleso and Hrebienok: classics for everyone
Štrbské Pleso (1,346 m) is the most famous Tatra lake and a superb trailhead. Anyone can walk the lake loop in half an hour; fitter hikers continue to Popradské pleso or to the Skok waterfall in the Mlynická valley. In winter this is a cross-country skiing hub, in summer a promenade with views of Solisko.
The other classic gateway is Hrebienok (1,285 m), reached by funicular from Starý Smokovec. From there an easy trail leads to the waterfalls of the Studený potok stream – the Obrovský waterfall and the cascades below it are among the most photographed spots in the park and are perfectly manageable with children. If you want more, push on to Zamkovského chata and the Malá Studená valley.
Rysy: the highest summit without a guide
While Gerlach is reserved for guided parties, Rysy (2,503 m) is the highest Tatra summit you may climb on your own on a marked trail. The classic route runs from Štrbské Pleso via Popradské pleso and Chata pod Rysmi (2,250 m), the highest mountain hut in Slovakia. Expect 8 to 9 hours round trip and more than 1,100 metres of ascent – you need fitness, but in summer the route is not technically extreme.
The reward is a summit right on the Slovak-Polish border with dozens of peaks and lakes in view at once. Rysy was a favourite of hikers back in Austro-Hungarian times and remains a rite of passage for anyone serious about the Tatras.
A night in a hut: Zbojnícka and Téryho
You only truly know the Tatras once you have slept in them. Zbojnícka chata in the Veľká Studená valley and Téryho chata in the Malá Studená valley (2,015 m) are legends where hikers from all over Europe gather over evening tea. A bed costs roughly 25 to 35 EUR, supplies are still carried up on porters' backs, and you should book weeks ahead – even earlier in summer. The two huts are linked by the demanding crossing of Priečne sedlo, one of the finest secured scrambles in the Tatras, for experienced hikers with a head for heights only.
Practical information
- Season: high-altitude trails above the huts are closed by law from 1 November to 15 June. The best hiking months are July to September.
- Getting there: take a train to Poprad-Tatry, then the Tatra Electric Railway, which links Starý Smokovec, Tatranská Lomnica and Štrbské Pleso. Leave the car at a park-and-ride.
- How long: a long weekend gives you a taste; plan 4 to 5 days to do the range justice.
- Prices: hotels from about 60 EUR per night, huts from 25 EUR, a daily menu in the valley 8 to 12 EUR, railway fares from 2 EUR per section.
One last piece of advice: Tatra weather changes in minutes. Start early, watch the forecast and never underestimate an afternoon thunderstorm. The peaks will still be there tomorrow – you should not be on the ridge when the storm arrives.